Front elasticized pockets
Inside elasticized pockets
Inside zippered pocket
You will need 1 yard of fabric for this bag, and one yard of lining. You also need a yard of fusible, medium weight interfacing, and 1 1/2" rectangular "D" ring and a 1 1/2" buckle. You need a 18" - 20" zipper (it will be trimmed to size) and one 6" zipper.
You will need approximately a yard of 1/2" elastic.
If you want your strap of one continuous piece of fabric instead of piecing it to get the right length, use 55" of fabric instead. You will then have enough to make 2 bags.
IT IS WISE TO LABEL EACH PIECE AS YOU CUT IT.
Cut 2 from fabric and 2 from lining - front and back panels 10"x14"
Using a saucer or a glass as a guide, trim the bottom two corners to a curve.
Cut 1 from fabric and 1 from lining - bottom gusset 38"x5"
Cut 2 from fabric - zipper tape extensions 4"x 16"
Cut 1 fabric front pocket 7"x20"
Cut one fabric "string" 1"x 24". Turn right sides together and stitch 1/4" seam along the long edge. Turn right side out and tuck in the ends and tack them down for a neat end.
Cut one fabric strap - 6"x55" ( you can piece 6" wide pieces to get the needed length)
Cut 1 from lining - inside gathered pocket. 12"x16" Fold in half lengthwise, right sides together and stitch the long seam. Turn right side out and press. Stitch a casing along the top edge 1/8" wider than the elastic you are using.
Cut one from lining - inside zipper pocket. - square 8" x 8" Fold in half right sides together and stitch around the 3 open sides leaving a 3" area open for turning. Turn right side out and press. You do not have to stitch the opening closed as this will be topstitched.
Cut one front pocket lining 6"x20"
From medium weight fusible interfacing, cut:
2 pieces 10"x14" for front and back, curve the bottom corners same as the fabric pieces
1 piece 5"x 38" for bottom gusset
1 piece 5"x14" to reinforce bottom gusset center (optional)
1 piece 1 1/2" x 55" for strap
Take all interfacing pieces except the strap and trim 1/4" around each edge. This will prevent the fusible from getting on the iron or ironing board and reduce the bulk in the seam allowances.
Shaping the bottom gusset.
Take the fabric, and the lining piece and lay them on top of each other to cut them both at once.
Fold the strip in half crosswise. From the raw edge measure 10" and mark.
From the top raw corner and the bottom raw corner, mark 1" up the short side.
Using a ruler, connect the top 10" mark to the top 1" mark. Repeat on the bottom.
This will shape the sides of the bag to taper in at the top.
Do the same with the interfacing. Trim the extra 1/4", then fuse it to wrong side of bottom gusset. Set aside.
Take the strap piece and press it in half lengthwise. Open and fuse the strap interfacing to the wrong side along the pressed fold line.
To form the inside zippered pocket.
Take your inside zippered pocket. To add the zipper, align the top edge to the edge of the zipper teeth. Make sure the zipper is right side up, and the bottom end of the tape is slightly inside the pocket edge. Fold any extra tape at the top edge under at a 90 degree angle to leave a neat edge. Topstitch along the zipper tape about 1/8"- 1/4" from the teeth. Use a zipper foot, or if your needle position adjusts, move it all the way over to the left.
To form the inside gathered pocket.
Take the pocket piece and insert elastic in the casing. Place on top of the back lining piece matching the bottom edge. Stitch the bottom edge 1/4" from the bottom so the stitching will be inside the seam allowance.
You will divide this into 3 pockets. Place a pin on the back lining piece at the 2 points where you want the pockets to divide. (I make the center pocket fit my cell phone) Stitch up from the bottom to the top edge -and over the elastic to form the first division. Then pull the elastic taught so the center pocket is gathered well. Pin the other division point and stitch from bottom to over the elastic to form the other side of the center pocket. Now, on each side, pull the elastic taught to gather the rest of the pocket fullness to match the width of the lining piece. stitch across the elastic and the sides to hold in place.
Do this on both sides.
To form the front outside pocket, place the front pocket fabric and the front pocket lining right sides together, matching the top long edge. Stitch a 1/4" seam. Open and press the seam allowance towards the fabric piece.
Fold in half lengthwise and press. You'll see that the fabric will extend over the edge and into the lining side.
To attach the front pocket.
Stitch the elastic down, inside the side seam allowance to anchor it. Pull the elastic taught until it is gathered evenly. I make this rather tight as it tends to loosen as the bag is constructed. Secure the elastic to the other end and trim excess.
Do the lining first for practise. Then do the same thing with the purse fabric. You'll end up with two "bags", one of purse fabric and one of lining.
1. Mark the center of the bottom of both front and back pieces, and the center of the bottom gusset. Taking the front piece, match the center to the center of the gusset, right sides together. I only use one pin at this point. Starting at the center, stitch a 1/2" seam along the bottom, around the curve and up the side. If you hold the gusset in your right hand and the front piece in your left hand you can match them up as you sew. Go slowly around the bottom corner. Now, starting in the center again, stitch the other way, going along the bottom, around the curve and up the side. This time the gusset will be on top.
There is extra allowance on each end of the gusset, so it will stick out even when the front and the back pieces are attached.
Again, the gusset will stick out on both ends.
Attach the back piece in the same manner. You may need to wrestle with it a bit at this stage.
Doing this step with both the lining first, then with the fabric, you will now have 2 bags, a fabric one, and a lining one.
With the fabric bag inside out. With the lining bag right side out. Place the lining inside the bag. Match centers of top edges and centers of bottom gusset where it sticks out the top. Leave a 4" opening along the top edge for turning. Stitch along the top raw edge lining up the raw edges as you go. Use a small stitch length so this is a strong seam. Leave the side gusset pieces open.
You can stitch across the tab below the ring if you choose, but it is not essential.
But I choose to add a zipper.
Now place the zipper right side DOWN. Carefully trim 1/4" off the one layer of the fabric along both raw edges as shown.
Fold the end of the zipper into the bag and top stitch across it.
The strap can also be adjusted to wear across the body, or as a shoulder bag.